Suburban development has nibbled at the far side of the hill, but the upper slopes are pleasant parkland; the steeper, Rome-facing flank is a nature reserve and favourite beauty spot. At the summit, accessible by road (traditionally a lovers' lane -- it's even called Vialetto degli Innamorati ), is a perfectly nice-looking cafe-restaurant (sadly long closed), a panoramic terrace, and...Martial.
A marble slab bears five lines from epigram 4.64:
In my World's Classics translation, this runs:
From here, on the one side, you can see the seven imperious hills and take in all of Rome -- the Alban Hills too, and the Tuscans, and every cool spot in the city's orbit; and ancient Fidenae, and little Rubrae...
Martial is admiring the view from the suburban villa of his wealthy best friend, Julius Martialis; but is it this view? What is this poem doing here, and why these five lines in particular (out of thirty-six)? In the next few blog posts I'll do my best to unpick it.
CONTINUED...
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